This sounds easy and just in case you don't know you know you cannot pour beer like soft drink unless it is flat.
Also home brew beer has yeast sediment on the bottom of the bottle so be gentle with it unless you do not mind a cloudy beer.
First of all make sure the beer is cold. Around two or three degees celsius.
Pop the cap take your glass and tilt the top towards the bottle.
Now touch the rim of the glass against an area just below the mouth of the bottle.
Tip the bottle up gently until beer begins to run out.
If you are doing it right beer will run down the inside of the glass from the top all the way to the bottom.
The whole idea is to get the beer into the glass without disurbing it too much as that will make it froth up.
As the glass is near to being full note how much head(froth) is on the beer. If it is only very thin just lift the bottle away a little to cause the beer to froth a little. By now the glass should be upright and just as the head meets the rim stop pouring.
You should now have a glass full of beer. There may be some froth run over but with practice you will get it every time.
Saturday, November 24, 2007
Your First Home Brew Beer
Are you ready to go?
Have you read the articles that lead up to this one?
Basic Home Brewing Equipment Essentials.
Basic Home Brew Beer Ingredients
Once you are up to speed with those and you have the equipment you are ready to go.
Step1 Rinse all of your equipment and then sterilize with sodium metabisulfate or home brew sterilizer.
This includes can of concentate, fermenter container, fermenter lid and tap(twist the tap on and off making sure sterilizer comes into contact with as much of the internals of the tap as possible), large spoon, airlock, can opener and anything else that may come into conyact with your hands.
Cleanliness can not be over stated because it only takes one small error to contaminated your brew. Make sure your fermenter is sterile around the threads of the tap and lid and even on the outside. You can never be too cautious.
Step2 sityour can of concentrate in some hot water. This will make the malt runny and will come out of the can easier.
While your can is warming up boil 2 litres of water and pour into you fermenter after all the sterilizer has been poured out. If you are using a sterilizer with a soapy feel to it it may be a good idea to rinse it with boiled water. Soapy chemicals can affect the surface tension of your beer leading to poor head retension.
Step3 Remove the lid from your can of concentrate with a can opener and pour contents into your fermenter. Begin stiring this with your big spoon and pour in your secondary sugar source. eg Dextrose, Light Dry Malt. Usually about a kilogram.
Step4 Fill the fermenter to the point that your concentate indicated that its would make. (Usually 22.5 or 23 litres)
Continue to stir until all is disolved and no residue remains on the bottom.
Step5 Check the temperature of the mixture using the thermometer stuck on the side of your fermenter. If it is between 18 and 28 derees Celsius pour the sachell of yeast supplied with your can of concentrate.
If it is too hot you may need to put ice in, if it is too cold you may need to warm it up in which case pour the yeast in and move it to a warm location after the lid is on.
Step6 Assemble your lid and airlock. put some sterilizer or sterile water in the airlock and place the lid on as soon as you pitch the yeast in.
Try to keep the time it takes to do all of this as low as you can as the more exposure the wort(mixture in the fermenter) has to the enviroment around you the more chance of it being infected.
Now you can play the waiting game.
Fermentation takes around four to eight days depending on temperature. Try to maintain that 18 to 28 degree window. Too low and fermentation will slow and even stop. Too hot and the yeast will die.
Iff it gets too cold just warm it up. use an electric blanket under it or heat belts can be purchased from your home brew shop. It should start again once it warms up.
If it gets too hot and fermentation stops then all is not lost. You will however need to pitch another yeast in, make sure it is the same yeast strain as the first as odd flavours have been known to accur with different yeast strains in one ferment.
So the airlock has all but stopped bubbling after four to eight days.
This is where the beer hydrometer is handy.
You just pour some beer out of your fermenter using the tap into the vessel that your fermenter is stored in and drop your hydrometer in. The finish SG should be between 1008 and 1000.
It will indicate on your can of concentrate where it will end up when it is finished.
There are many variables that come into play when working out a finishing SG.
Once it is done and the SG is satisfactory it is time to bottle.
Rinse and sterilize your bottles.
If you are using the smaller 375ml bottles you will need to put a half tea spoon of sugar into each bottle. If you are using the larger 750ml bottles 1 tea spoon is required.
This is called the priming sugar and the yeast will consume this small amount of sugar to produce the CO2 that will carbonate your beer.
WARNING: Do not add more sugar than recommended as bottles may explode.
It is best to prime all of the bottles one after the other so you do not miss and or double prime them. If you think a bottle is double primed do not use it. It may explode.
Now all of the bottles are primed it is time to bottle your first home brew beer.
Sterilize your filling device with the valve on the bottom push it into the mouth of fermenter tap.
Place a bowl below the filling device(this is to catch any beer that leaks out of the filler).
Turn the tap on, beer should fill up inside the tube of the filler but not pour out because the valve will be shut.
Take your first bottle and slide it over the filler, as the valve pushes against bottom of the bottle the bottle should start to fill.
Sometimes the beer will froth and you may find it hard to fill just set it aside and move on to the next bottle and come back to it later.
The reason for the frothing is the sugar in the bottle is in crystal form and as it disolves it causes some Co2 that is in the beer already to be released.
As each bottle is filled cap it.
Some cappers have a magnet in the middle of the capping flange and others don't.
If yours does have a magnet then the cap will hold agaist the flange if it doesn,t just sit the cap against the opening of the bottle and bring the capper down over it.
As you pull the lever there will be some resistance as the cap is formed around the seal of the bottle. ( Do not try to turn the cap on the bottle this will break the seal).
Once the lid is on turn the bottle upside down a couple of times in your hand to stir up the sugar in the bottle and you are done.
Sit them in a dark place that has temperature of around 18 to 30 degrees celsius for a minimum of two weeks and then you can refridgerate and enjoy your HOME BREW BEER.
Have you read the articles that lead up to this one?
Basic Home Brewing Equipment Essentials.
Basic Home Brew Beer Ingredients
Once you are up to speed with those and you have the equipment you are ready to go.
Step1 Rinse all of your equipment and then sterilize with sodium metabisulfate or home brew sterilizer.
This includes can of concentate, fermenter container, fermenter lid and tap(twist the tap on and off making sure sterilizer comes into contact with as much of the internals of the tap as possible), large spoon, airlock, can opener and anything else that may come into conyact with your hands.
Cleanliness can not be over stated because it only takes one small error to contaminated your brew. Make sure your fermenter is sterile around the threads of the tap and lid and even on the outside. You can never be too cautious.
Step2 sityour can of concentrate in some hot water. This will make the malt runny and will come out of the can easier.
While your can is warming up boil 2 litres of water and pour into you fermenter after all the sterilizer has been poured out. If you are using a sterilizer with a soapy feel to it it may be a good idea to rinse it with boiled water. Soapy chemicals can affect the surface tension of your beer leading to poor head retension.
Step3 Remove the lid from your can of concentrate with a can opener and pour contents into your fermenter. Begin stiring this with your big spoon and pour in your secondary sugar source. eg Dextrose, Light Dry Malt. Usually about a kilogram.
Step4 Fill the fermenter to the point that your concentate indicated that its would make. (Usually 22.5 or 23 litres)
Continue to stir until all is disolved and no residue remains on the bottom.
Step5 Check the temperature of the mixture using the thermometer stuck on the side of your fermenter. If it is between 18 and 28 derees Celsius pour the sachell of yeast supplied with your can of concentrate.
If it is too hot you may need to put ice in, if it is too cold you may need to warm it up in which case pour the yeast in and move it to a warm location after the lid is on.
Step6 Assemble your lid and airlock. put some sterilizer or sterile water in the airlock and place the lid on as soon as you pitch the yeast in.
Try to keep the time it takes to do all of this as low as you can as the more exposure the wort(mixture in the fermenter) has to the enviroment around you the more chance of it being infected.
Now you can play the waiting game.
Fermentation takes around four to eight days depending on temperature. Try to maintain that 18 to 28 degree window. Too low and fermentation will slow and even stop. Too hot and the yeast will die.
Iff it gets too cold just warm it up. use an electric blanket under it or heat belts can be purchased from your home brew shop. It should start again once it warms up.
If it gets too hot and fermentation stops then all is not lost. You will however need to pitch another yeast in, make sure it is the same yeast strain as the first as odd flavours have been known to accur with different yeast strains in one ferment.
So the airlock has all but stopped bubbling after four to eight days.
This is where the beer hydrometer is handy.
You just pour some beer out of your fermenter using the tap into the vessel that your fermenter is stored in and drop your hydrometer in. The finish SG should be between 1008 and 1000.
It will indicate on your can of concentrate where it will end up when it is finished.
There are many variables that come into play when working out a finishing SG.
Once it is done and the SG is satisfactory it is time to bottle.
Rinse and sterilize your bottles.
If you are using the smaller 375ml bottles you will need to put a half tea spoon of sugar into each bottle. If you are using the larger 750ml bottles 1 tea spoon is required.
This is called the priming sugar and the yeast will consume this small amount of sugar to produce the CO2 that will carbonate your beer.
WARNING: Do not add more sugar than recommended as bottles may explode.
It is best to prime all of the bottles one after the other so you do not miss and or double prime them. If you think a bottle is double primed do not use it. It may explode.
Now all of the bottles are primed it is time to bottle your first home brew beer.
Sterilize your filling device with the valve on the bottom push it into the mouth of fermenter tap.
Place a bowl below the filling device(this is to catch any beer that leaks out of the filler).
Turn the tap on, beer should fill up inside the tube of the filler but not pour out because the valve will be shut.
Take your first bottle and slide it over the filler, as the valve pushes against bottom of the bottle the bottle should start to fill.
Sometimes the beer will froth and you may find it hard to fill just set it aside and move on to the next bottle and come back to it later.
The reason for the frothing is the sugar in the bottle is in crystal form and as it disolves it causes some Co2 that is in the beer already to be released.
As each bottle is filled cap it.
Some cappers have a magnet in the middle of the capping flange and others don't.
If yours does have a magnet then the cap will hold agaist the flange if it doesn,t just sit the cap against the opening of the bottle and bring the capper down over it.
As you pull the lever there will be some resistance as the cap is formed around the seal of the bottle. ( Do not try to turn the cap on the bottle this will break the seal).
Once the lid is on turn the bottle upside down a couple of times in your hand to stir up the sugar in the bottle and you are done.
Sit them in a dark place that has temperature of around 18 to 30 degrees celsius for a minimum of two weeks and then you can refridgerate and enjoy your HOME BREW BEER.
Friday, November 23, 2007
Basic Home Brew Beer Ingredients
If my memory serves me correctly there is an old german law that states that beer should be made of these four ingredients only; Malt, Yeast, hops and water.
Although beer often has other things in it, mostly other forms of sugars besides what is in the malt.
Now this is just the basic home brewing ingredients, for those who want more information on where these ingredients come from click HERE.
Here I will concentrate more on kit brewing where only limited knowledge of where the ingredients of beer come from.
The First ingredient is malt which with out a doubt is the ingredient that most shapes what beer is. It gives it its colour, it is where the foamy head comes from and last but not least where the sugars come from that are fermented into alcohol. As said earlier some times other sugars are added. These ferment as well.
Yeast is the means by which the sugars are converted into alcohol. These microscopic organisms are related to the fungi family of plants.
They are some times quite fussy about there living conditions and that is where temperature is important. So as yeast consumes sugars they produce alcohol and CO2 gas.
This comes in handy when we carbonate our beer in the bottles.
Yeast contributes to the flavour of the beer and some yeast strains require careful temperature control to get the best out of them.
Hops are a flower and there are many varieties grown all over the world.
the extract from them was originally used as a preservative but later the bitter flavour and the aroma that was contributed by them became the reason for them being an ingredient.
Hops are the one thing that makes a beer of a particular style the most.
They can give an idea of where a beer may have come from.
Water..... you think not much can be said about water eh!
Well.. there are many old wives tales out there and basically there is no comprimise when it comes to water.
Where ever you get it make sure it is bacteria free or your beer will taste and smell more like sewer water.
Basically just use the water you have. If you feel that it may spoil your beer boil it.
I will descibe the best method for boiling water in Making Your First Home Brew Beer.
The other ingredients that are often put into beer (especially home brew beer) are various kinds of sugars.
They include;
Sucrose(white sugar)
Dextrose(made from corn)
Maltodextrin(corn syrup)
Lactose(made from milk)
Honey
Brewers caramel(colouring agent)
There are a few others but for now we will just stick with these.
There are many sugar packs that can be bought and most of them are made from one of these basic ingredients or a combination.
Personally I stay away from sucrose lactose and honey as they are just too far away from what beer should be made from.
Others swear by sucrose but in my experience it leaves a cidery taste that is the taste that has been coined the home brew taste for the last 20 years and not for good reasons believe me!
Sucrose is used because it is cheap and available.
But feel free to experiment at your own leasure.
There is one other thing that is some times put into beer at the pre fermentation stage.
Dry Enzime is often used to create dry beer taste.
What happens is the enzime breaks down the more complex sugars that the yeast cannot consume into some thing that yeast can consume.
This reduces any sweetness that beer has and gives that dryer characteristic.
So where does that leave the home brewer, well lucky for us all the hard work is done.
All we have to do is go to the home brew shop take a look at the selection of beer pack concentrates of which there are dozens.
Pick the one you like the sound of;
Pilsener
Munich Lager
Dry Lager
Pale Ale
Blonde
Bitter
Mexican Cerveza
Dutch Lager
Premium Lager
Czech Pilsener
Wheat Beer
Brown Ale
Stout
Draught
Thats just a quick guide on what is on offer these days. There are many more.
You should be able to find something to your liking amongst that list. Any good brew shop will have mre styles than that available.
Now its time to HOME BREW YOUR FIRST BEER.
Although beer often has other things in it, mostly other forms of sugars besides what is in the malt.
Now this is just the basic home brewing ingredients, for those who want more information on where these ingredients come from click HERE.
Here I will concentrate more on kit brewing where only limited knowledge of where the ingredients of beer come from.
The First ingredient is malt which with out a doubt is the ingredient that most shapes what beer is. It gives it its colour, it is where the foamy head comes from and last but not least where the sugars come from that are fermented into alcohol. As said earlier some times other sugars are added. These ferment as well.
Yeast is the means by which the sugars are converted into alcohol. These microscopic organisms are related to the fungi family of plants.
They are some times quite fussy about there living conditions and that is where temperature is important. So as yeast consumes sugars they produce alcohol and CO2 gas.
This comes in handy when we carbonate our beer in the bottles.
Yeast contributes to the flavour of the beer and some yeast strains require careful temperature control to get the best out of them.
Hops are a flower and there are many varieties grown all over the world.
the extract from them was originally used as a preservative but later the bitter flavour and the aroma that was contributed by them became the reason for them being an ingredient.
Hops are the one thing that makes a beer of a particular style the most.
They can give an idea of where a beer may have come from.
Water..... you think not much can be said about water eh!
Well.. there are many old wives tales out there and basically there is no comprimise when it comes to water.
Where ever you get it make sure it is bacteria free or your beer will taste and smell more like sewer water.
Basically just use the water you have. If you feel that it may spoil your beer boil it.
I will descibe the best method for boiling water in Making Your First Home Brew Beer.
The other ingredients that are often put into beer (especially home brew beer) are various kinds of sugars.
They include;
Sucrose(white sugar)
Dextrose(made from corn)
Maltodextrin(corn syrup)
Lactose(made from milk)
Honey
Brewers caramel(colouring agent)
There are a few others but for now we will just stick with these.
There are many sugar packs that can be bought and most of them are made from one of these basic ingredients or a combination.
Personally I stay away from sucrose lactose and honey as they are just too far away from what beer should be made from.
Others swear by sucrose but in my experience it leaves a cidery taste that is the taste that has been coined the home brew taste for the last 20 years and not for good reasons believe me!
Sucrose is used because it is cheap and available.
But feel free to experiment at your own leasure.
There is one other thing that is some times put into beer at the pre fermentation stage.
Dry Enzime is often used to create dry beer taste.
What happens is the enzime breaks down the more complex sugars that the yeast cannot consume into some thing that yeast can consume.
This reduces any sweetness that beer has and gives that dryer characteristic.
So where does that leave the home brewer, well lucky for us all the hard work is done.
All we have to do is go to the home brew shop take a look at the selection of beer pack concentrates of which there are dozens.
Pick the one you like the sound of;
Pilsener
Munich Lager
Dry Lager
Pale Ale
Blonde
Bitter
Mexican Cerveza
Dutch Lager
Premium Lager
Czech Pilsener
Wheat Beer
Brown Ale
Stout
Draught
Thats just a quick guide on what is on offer these days. There are many more.
You should be able to find something to your liking amongst that list. Any good brew shop will have mre styles than that available.
Now its time to HOME BREW YOUR FIRST BEER.
Tuesday, November 20, 2007
Home Brewing Equipment Essentials
So... You haven't done any brewing before but you want to give it a go!
Well this is where you will find out just how easy it is and how little is required to home brew beer from a beer pack.
The very first thing you need to do before anything else is find a clean area with running water and some where to boil water. For this you may need to negotiate whit your partiner or house mates to spare an hour or so of kitchen time to put that brew down and then in a week or less bottle your product.
Also you will need a dark spot that is above 18 deg celsius but below about 30 to store your bottles for a fortnight or so to gas and mature your new home brew beer.
Once you have that sorted it is time to talk hardware.
First up you need a fermenter which will more than likely be a 30 litre container bought from your local brew shop. You can get away with a 25 litre water container with a plastic tap on the bottom (very similar to the product at the brew shop). There are two problems with these containers;
1. There are often small bubbly defects inside the container that can harbour bacteria that will spoil you home brew beer.
2. Being only 25 litres there is not enough head space for your brew to allow the froth to grow, especially in warmer enviroments that speed fermentation.
Now you have your container next you will need a large plastic or metal spoon to stir your brew.
You can buy plastic ones from the home brew shop. Basically they are long enough to touch the bottom of your fermenter with the handle high enough that you dont stick your hand in the wort(what beer is called before it is fermented.
Next you may need an air lock to put in the lid of your container. This is not essential as there is a easier solution to this problem. Place plastic wrap over the opening of your container and stretch a large rubber band or in most cases the seal from the lid of your container over the top of the opening. Or buy an air lock from the home brew shop.
A bottle filling device is something that comes in handy and helps get the beer into the bottle from the fermenter. It has a valve on one end and the other end pushes into the fermenter tap. Helps prevent frothing and beer oxydisation.
Also a sterilizer of some description will be required. Again the home brew shop or supermarket is the best place. Generally Sodium metabisulfate is the one used but it can cause problems for asthmatics so there are others available. The others tend to have a soapy feel and good rinsing after sterilizing is a good idea.
Beer bottles are something you will need. Thirty 750ml bottles or sixty 375ml bottles for each brew. Plastic ones can be bought but I've found they are hard to keep clean.
Reusing old beer bottles is the trick taken by most homw brewers.
Caps are something you will need. If you have bought the pastic bottles then the caps are with them.
But if you are using old beer bottles you will need caps.
Caps come in three kinds. Crown Seal, Twist seal and Duel seal.
If your bottles have a thread then twist seals are for you. If they don,t then you need crown seals. Duel seals fit both. That is the easy way if you have both kinds of bottles.
The next few things are not esential but do come in handy, especially when you think something may be wrong.
A liquid crystal stick on thermometer to go on the side of your container with a range of at least 16 to 34 derees celsius.
The other is a beer hydrometer to measure the specific gravity of your brew to give you an idea of what stage it may be up to.
Also a priming sugar spoon is handy as it has both half and full spoon measures and is designed to fit the mouth of the bottle. Perfect for priming those bottles.
All of these can be purchased at your local brew shop but can be found else where. e.g. Supermarkets.
The last thing that will come in very handy is a bench capper.
Use of these is a must when capping glass bottles as the device supplied with most brew kits are a knock on style of thing requiring the use of a mallot. I just could not bring my self to hit the caps on for fear of a bottle shattering and consequent injury that may have occured to my hands.
As I have already indicated all of these items can be purchased in on place, The Home Brew Shop. That is where all your home brew beer woes can be answered.
Well this is where you will find out just how easy it is and how little is required to home brew beer from a beer pack.
The very first thing you need to do before anything else is find a clean area with running water and some where to boil water. For this you may need to negotiate whit your partiner or house mates to spare an hour or so of kitchen time to put that brew down and then in a week or less bottle your product.
Also you will need a dark spot that is above 18 deg celsius but below about 30 to store your bottles for a fortnight or so to gas and mature your new home brew beer.
Once you have that sorted it is time to talk hardware.
First up you need a fermenter which will more than likely be a 30 litre container bought from your local brew shop. You can get away with a 25 litre water container with a plastic tap on the bottom (very similar to the product at the brew shop). There are two problems with these containers;
1. There are often small bubbly defects inside the container that can harbour bacteria that will spoil you home brew beer.
2. Being only 25 litres there is not enough head space for your brew to allow the froth to grow, especially in warmer enviroments that speed fermentation.
Now you have your container next you will need a large plastic or metal spoon to stir your brew.
You can buy plastic ones from the home brew shop. Basically they are long enough to touch the bottom of your fermenter with the handle high enough that you dont stick your hand in the wort(what beer is called before it is fermented.
Next you may need an air lock to put in the lid of your container. This is not essential as there is a easier solution to this problem. Place plastic wrap over the opening of your container and stretch a large rubber band or in most cases the seal from the lid of your container over the top of the opening. Or buy an air lock from the home brew shop.
A bottle filling device is something that comes in handy and helps get the beer into the bottle from the fermenter. It has a valve on one end and the other end pushes into the fermenter tap. Helps prevent frothing and beer oxydisation.
Also a sterilizer of some description will be required. Again the home brew shop or supermarket is the best place. Generally Sodium metabisulfate is the one used but it can cause problems for asthmatics so there are others available. The others tend to have a soapy feel and good rinsing after sterilizing is a good idea.
Beer bottles are something you will need. Thirty 750ml bottles or sixty 375ml bottles for each brew. Plastic ones can be bought but I've found they are hard to keep clean.
Reusing old beer bottles is the trick taken by most homw brewers.
Caps are something you will need. If you have bought the pastic bottles then the caps are with them.
But if you are using old beer bottles you will need caps.
Caps come in three kinds. Crown Seal, Twist seal and Duel seal.
If your bottles have a thread then twist seals are for you. If they don,t then you need crown seals. Duel seals fit both. That is the easy way if you have both kinds of bottles.
The next few things are not esential but do come in handy, especially when you think something may be wrong.
A liquid crystal stick on thermometer to go on the side of your container with a range of at least 16 to 34 derees celsius.
The other is a beer hydrometer to measure the specific gravity of your brew to give you an idea of what stage it may be up to.
Also a priming sugar spoon is handy as it has both half and full spoon measures and is designed to fit the mouth of the bottle. Perfect for priming those bottles.
All of these can be purchased at your local brew shop but can be found else where. e.g. Supermarkets.
The last thing that will come in very handy is a bench capper.
Use of these is a must when capping glass bottles as the device supplied with most brew kits are a knock on style of thing requiring the use of a mallot. I just could not bring my self to hit the caps on for fear of a bottle shattering and consequent injury that may have occured to my hands.
As I have already indicated all of these items can be purchased in on place, The Home Brew Shop. That is where all your home brew beer woes can be answered.
So that every thing you need excluding ingredients. But that is another story. You may like to read the article on the ingredients before you go off and buy your equipment as it may save you a second trip to the supermarket or home brew shop.
Why Make Home Brew Beer?
This is the question I here many people ask.
Really the answer is quite simple, though there is more than one answer.
To begin with it is cheaper, it is often interesting and gives the opportunity to enjoy something you have made that can freequently be better than the purchased product.
And if that isn't enough you can taylor a beer to suit your own tastes! Now your talkin'.
Now that I have you convinced that home brewing beer is for you I can tell you more about what this page is really about just in case you haven't guessed.
Home Brew Beer has had a fairly bad public identity in the past but in the last few years the industry has really grown. In fact it has grown so much so that almost any beer you can think of can be made from purchased beer packs or even modified beer packs.
The beer produced by these packs is a exceptional product and often can get people asking questions about it.
In this blog I would like to be able to offer alot to the beginer and also tho the seasoned brewer.
From kit brewing to mash brewing there is not one aspect of HOME BREW BEER that will not be covered.
So if you are a beginner and you are using this blog as your main source of information or even if you are a pro and you feel you have something to offer, by all means email or leave a comment.
Any input or critisism is welcome because at the and of the day the winners are the ones who gain something from this blog.
Last of all, I know what it is like to have this brew that you have spent time on being sure that every little thing was right and for what ever reason the air lock doesn't bubble or for some reason it smells bad and tastes awful.
Or you may be asking your self what would happen if I done this...
This is where you find out what happened or what will happen.
So sit back, read on and enjoy.
Regards,
Really the answer is quite simple, though there is more than one answer.
To begin with it is cheaper, it is often interesting and gives the opportunity to enjoy something you have made that can freequently be better than the purchased product.
And if that isn't enough you can taylor a beer to suit your own tastes! Now your talkin'.
Now that I have you convinced that home brewing beer is for you I can tell you more about what this page is really about just in case you haven't guessed.
Home Brew Beer has had a fairly bad public identity in the past but in the last few years the industry has really grown. In fact it has grown so much so that almost any beer you can think of can be made from purchased beer packs or even modified beer packs.
The beer produced by these packs is a exceptional product and often can get people asking questions about it.
In this blog I would like to be able to offer alot to the beginer and also tho the seasoned brewer.
From kit brewing to mash brewing there is not one aspect of HOME BREW BEER that will not be covered.
So if you are a beginner and you are using this blog as your main source of information or even if you are a pro and you feel you have something to offer, by all means email or leave a comment.
Any input or critisism is welcome because at the and of the day the winners are the ones who gain something from this blog.
Last of all, I know what it is like to have this brew that you have spent time on being sure that every little thing was right and for what ever reason the air lock doesn't bubble or for some reason it smells bad and tastes awful.
Or you may be asking your self what would happen if I done this...
This is where you find out what happened or what will happen.
So sit back, read on and enjoy.
Regards,
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